1.6 Beta double clutch implementation.

[Max]

clutch in game lowers force transfer from engine further to power train. i have to look in code what exactly it does and if it could have any side effects, but basically it just gradually cut the torque. and gradually match rpm (through torque) when connected again. nothing more.

input shaft has generally same rpm as engine. gear ratio is between input and output shafts of transmission. but the numbers you wrote are rather correct. you have to drop engine rpm from 1500 to 1065, and you have to do it with released clutch to transfer this rpm to input shaft. in that case you can engage 12th gear as both shafts rpm with target gear are matching.

the sound can be started later, but in that case you will lose the only direct feedback you have.
what we would need is to tell the game that you are trying slightly to shift - simulate just gentle force on stick, not push the gear no matter the cost. in that moment we could make, say, different sound that could tell you if you can fully engage the gear or not yet (this is the thing you feel as stick resistance IRL). but this cannot be done with any shifter device we tried.
maybe we could try first half second have the sound quiet and increase the volume to full later. before, we tested some rpm difference feedback but based on rpm the sound warping artifact were truly ugly.

[natvander]

My input shaft calculation is taken at the respective gear wheel connected to the counter-shaft (which is what needs to be rotating at the same speed as the output shaft for the dog clutch to engage). My definition was probably not clear but I think you understood. Ultimately, while input shaft speed is the only measurement the driver can reliably use (via the tachometer), it's the rotational speed of the required gear wheel that counts.

So currently in game, the driver depresses the clutch - moves gear to neutral - releases clutch - waits for tachometer to fall/rise - ..... is it the timing of the second clutch depression (at the right rpm), or the timing of the gear shift (at the right rpm), or a combination of both in game that dictates whether the gear shift is successful? And in game, if I depress the clutch early (lets say I shift from 10th to 12th and input shaft (engine) rpm only drops by 250rpm), will the game still simulate the gradual slowing down in rotational speed of the counter shaft so that a gear shift may still be made while the clutch is depressed (assuming road speed remains constant)?

In relation to sound, yes I did consider the fact that the only positive feedback is being removed, but only for half to 1 second. As you mentioned, in reality you 'preload' the gear lever (apply gentle pressure) before you move the lever so you can feel when the shift can be made. Then the gears 'pop' out and in (with the clutch it's a gentle pop as there's no load from the engine on the gearbox). With timing and gentle pressure there should be no grinding of gears. At the moment the only way to avoid grinding of gears is to shift at that exact rpm match which is VERY hard to do consistently in game - both by double-clutching and floating. That half - 1 second could simulate that. If you get it wrong, you'll know about it when the gear grinding kicks in.
When you mention rpm difference, what exactly did you try? My other suggestion would be to have the sound effect delayed if you shift within say 50 rpm of the matched rpm value (with the sound effect occuring after half-1 second if the shift is unsuccessful - for example you shift up the gears but you shift 40rpm too late) depending on whether engine rpm is approaching or departing from the matched rpm value, but you get the current gear grinding straight away if you attempt a gear change more than 50 rpm off the matched rpm value. Is that similar to what you mentioned?

While I haven't driven one in quite some time, I got my truck license in a non-synchro 4wd truck and used to drive a variety of non-synchro fire trucks.

[theclumsygeek]

is it the timing of the second clutch depression (at the right rpm), or the timing of the gear shift (at the right rpm), or a combination of both in game that dictates whether the gear shift is successful?

It is the timing of the 2nd clutch at the right rpm, as I just recently discovered thanks to another thread (link below). After the 2nd clutch, shifting into gear can follow (~1 sec interval). The timing when you shift into gear is not that impt, as long as you don't take too long that your speed changes dramatically already.

Here's the thread where I found that info:
viewtopic.php?f=178&t=216361&p=723709#p723709

[natvander]

That would certainly explain a few things.

[Roadkill]

What we need are force feedback shifter and pedals. A shifter with the range selector and splitter switches built in are a big help also. From what I recall if things are modeled correctly in the game and you're at the correct RPM a quick short jab on the clutch gets you into neutral followed by the second short jab to get you into the next gear. The timing between the jab and the stick move is the tricky bit. If you miss the timing you may have to blip the throttle and try again. If you miss it on a steep incline in the lower close ratio gears chances are you will need to drop down to a lower gear. I learned on a 1947 Autocar wrecker with a 5spd main box and a 3 speed splitter. A true beast. Fortunately the traffic was much lighter in those days and required less shifting. People were more polite back then and would allow you to merge without coming to a complete stop.

[natvander]

It's not the actual double clutching that's causing me problems (as I mentioned previous, I got my truck license in a non-synchro truck). It's getting the game mechanics to reflect double clutching reliably.