@Restruct62 , you could try adjusting the clutch range and sensitivity in controller settings
I think I have set the 'clutch range' at 1/3 to 1/2, so you won't need to press the clutch the whole way to change gear
While you're adjusting settings, there is a little yellow bar with each control (steering, throttle, brake, clutch) that shows the effect while you move the pedal
Edit: the game does not simulate clutch brake, so only an issue if you're used to the clutch brake in real life
Double Clutching - Do You Practice It?
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- Posts: 19
- Joined: 17 Apr 2020 19:48
Re: Double Clutching - Do You Practice It?
@marcf @natvander
Omg, finally I have found the man who could solve this puzzle. So, double clutch is impossible because we found out one big bug in game, which is going from ETS 1.27. FULL EXPLAINATION BELOW.
Gearbox has input shaft and drive shaft. When you in neutral depress clutch and hold it, input shaft, disconnected from engine, should slow down, but IT MAINTAINS RPM WHICH WERE ACCURATELY BEFORE DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH! Example. You slow to 1000 rpm on 6th gear, clutch to neutral, tap gas to 1600, depress clutch, press 5 gear button and.... OOPS! No gearing, but you made everything ok. Because input shaft HOLDS RPM which were before depressing, 1550, but you need 1400. And if you continue hold clutch pedal and truck starts go downhill and raise speed to match with memorised 1550 - 5 gear Will ENGAGED DESPITE OF 600 RPM IDLE ON TACHO! If after that you release clutch, you will see those 1550 rpm on tachometer. So, if it is possible, we ask developers to fix it and make input shaft slows down, when gearbox in neutral and clutch is depressed.
Omg, finally I have found the man who could solve this puzzle. So, double clutch is impossible because we found out one big bug in game, which is going from ETS 1.27. FULL EXPLAINATION BELOW.
Gearbox has input shaft and drive shaft. When you in neutral depress clutch and hold it, input shaft, disconnected from engine, should slow down, but IT MAINTAINS RPM WHICH WERE ACCURATELY BEFORE DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH! Example. You slow to 1000 rpm on 6th gear, clutch to neutral, tap gas to 1600, depress clutch, press 5 gear button and.... OOPS! No gearing, but you made everything ok. Because input shaft HOLDS RPM which were before depressing, 1550, but you need 1400. And if you continue hold clutch pedal and truck starts go downhill and raise speed to match with memorised 1550 - 5 gear Will ENGAGED DESPITE OF 600 RPM IDLE ON TACHO! If after that you release clutch, you will see those 1550 rpm on tachometer. So, if it is possible, we ask developers to fix it and make input shaft slows down, when gearbox in neutral and clutch is depressed.
Re: Double Clutching - Do You Practice It?
Hi, just wanted to know, how i can edit things like this in the console ? where is the console ? I saw someone say you can edit alot of thing in that and i don't know where it is or open itFae wrote: ↑22 Jan 2020 14:09@jdkelley93 , I’ve found that RPM timing is a lot better in my preferred time more for the game ... “warp 0.7” (without the quotes) in the game console. It is unfortunate that this cannot be done in a config file, and every time you reboot the game, the speed resets and you have to type the command again, but in my opinion, warp 0.7 gets the acceleration, deceleration, and rpms matches best to what I experience in real life trucks.
I hope this helps.

Re: Double Clutching - Do You Practice It?
@marmat4 Go to the config.cfg from ~Documents/American Truck Simulator folder and change the value of the following lines, from 0 to 1:
g_developer "1"
g_console "1"
g_developer "1"
g_console "1"
Re: Double Clutching - Do You Practice It?
Squirrel is very good at explaining these things...
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Re: Double Clutching - Do You Practice It?
@IonutL and @Fawls, Thanks for answering that post. Appreciated. I've been away from the forum for a couple weeks so just barely catching up on questions/answers/etc 

Fae
Driving Instructor, Truck Driver and Bus Driver - CDL Class A
Safety First! G.O.A.L.
Proud to be a Trucker Against Trafficking
Driving Instructor, Truck Driver and Bus Driver - CDL Class A
Safety First! G.O.A.L.
Proud to be a Trucker Against Trafficking
Re: Double Clutching - Do You Practice It?
Hello everyone,,
Double clutching is a downshifting technique that promotes smoother transitions and lower transmission wear. It is useful for road racing, prolonging transmission life, and giving you an overall smoother ride.
In normal driving, with modern cars- you don't need to double clutch... ever. When you shift, these neat little devices called "synchronizers" or "synchromesh" (or whatever other name you want to give them) in your transmission help your shifting by matching the rotational speeds between meshing parts. Why do you need to match the speeds between transmission parts when you shift? Simple- they won't go together unless they're all traveling the exact same speed. Your synchros take care of this, so you don't have to worry about matching revs much in normal driving.
So the question now is... why the heck do you need to double clutch? It's useful in racing, it's required for non-synchro transmissions, and it's just a damn cool racing skill to master. Think of your transmission as being separated into two functional halves. One half is connected to your engine, and the other half is connected to your drive axles/wheels. The split between the two halves is right at your gears.
Let's say you're driving down the street in 5th gear. Assume that your gearing is 1:1 all the way though, just for simplicity's sake. Your engine is turning 3000rpm, and so are all the parts in your transmission. You want to downshift to get higher up in your powerband to pass someone, so you mash the clutch pedal, shift to 4th gear, then lift off the clutch pedal. If your 4th gear ratio is twice what your 5th is, your engine is now spinning at 6000rpm (along with the "engine half" of the transmission) while the "driveshaft half" of your transmission is still spinning at 3000rpm. Your car is still moving at the same speed, but you're higher up in your engine's powerband. Now you have more power to pass the person in front of you.
What normally happens when you downshift and don't match revs? You feel the car lurch some while the transmission forces the engine to a higher rev level. The synchros grip against each other to match the gear speeds, the gears mesh, and when your clutch grips- it pushes the engine higher... and you feel the rough transition. To smooth this out, you can raise the rev level of your engine and the "engine half" of the transmission so the synchros have less work to do, and so your transmission isn't pushing the engine around.
How do I double clutch? I never thought you'd ask.
Push clutch pedal down
Shift to neutral
Lift clutch pedal up
"Blip" throttle to raise engine speed, "engine half" transmission speed
Push clutch pedal down
Shift into lower gear
Lift clutch pedal up
Shamelessly copied and pasted from http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-artic ... hing-3515/
Double clutching is a downshifting technique that promotes smoother transitions and lower transmission wear. It is useful for road racing, prolonging transmission life, and giving you an overall smoother ride.
In normal driving, with modern cars- you don't need to double clutch... ever. When you shift, these neat little devices called "synchronizers" or "synchromesh" (or whatever other name you want to give them) in your transmission help your shifting by matching the rotational speeds between meshing parts. Why do you need to match the speeds between transmission parts when you shift? Simple- they won't go together unless they're all traveling the exact same speed. Your synchros take care of this, so you don't have to worry about matching revs much in normal driving.
So the question now is... why the heck do you need to double clutch? It's useful in racing, it's required for non-synchro transmissions, and it's just a damn cool racing skill to master. Think of your transmission as being separated into two functional halves. One half is connected to your engine, and the other half is connected to your drive axles/wheels. The split between the two halves is right at your gears.
Let's say you're driving down the street in 5th gear. Assume that your gearing is 1:1 all the way though, just for simplicity's sake. Your engine is turning 3000rpm, and so are all the parts in your transmission. You want to downshift to get higher up in your powerband to pass someone, so you mash the clutch pedal, shift to 4th gear, then lift off the clutch pedal. If your 4th gear ratio is twice what your 5th is, your engine is now spinning at 6000rpm (along with the "engine half" of the transmission) while the "driveshaft half" of your transmission is still spinning at 3000rpm. Your car is still moving at the same speed, but you're higher up in your engine's powerband. Now you have more power to pass the person in front of you.
What normally happens when you downshift and don't match revs? You feel the car lurch some while the transmission forces the engine to a higher rev level. The synchros grip against each other to match the gear speeds, the gears mesh, and when your clutch grips- it pushes the engine higher... and you feel the rough transition. To smooth this out, you can raise the rev level of your engine and the "engine half" of the transmission so the synchros have less work to do, and so your transmission isn't pushing the engine around.
How do I double clutch? I never thought you'd ask.
Push clutch pedal down
Shift to neutral
Lift clutch pedal up
"Blip" throttle to raise engine speed, "engine half" transmission speed
Push clutch pedal down
Shift into lower gear
Lift clutch pedal up
Shamelessly copied and pasted from http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-artic ... hing-3515/
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