Starting on a hill

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JeeF
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Re: Starting on a hill

#61 Post by JeeF » 18 Sep 2018 03:49

Doing wheelies now? XD
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Fawls
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Re: Starting on a hill

#62 Post by Fawls » 18 Sep 2018 06:51

For some reason I have lost the engine brake sound from inside the cab? I swapped the original file back and its working again?
Doesn't matter, one thing I have learned (apart from how to change things) is that I am used to the standard gears now!
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Ilmiont
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Re: Starting on a hill

#63 Post by Ilmiont » 05 Oct 2018 15:49

I finally got around to making a video.

Unfortunately, as mentioned in the video description, it didn't go so well as normal... I was too tired and impatient, lifted clutch too fast and didn't slip well enough. You can tell from the video though it was about to bite in 1H on the first attempt and then I lift the clutch a moment too early. End up throwing it into LH to get away from the lights so as not to annoy the AI ;)

This is a 500hp Cummins W900 in San Francisco, Eaton 18-spd shifted with G27, 32,000lb cargo weight. I have no doubt whatsoever that I could and should have got it away first time in 1H; although I'm now up in Oregon I'll try and make a video again at some point when I find an appropriate hill.
To me, I don't think there's anything wrong with the in-game clutch simulation really. Sure, pulling away loaded on a steep hill is hard... but I mean, seriously what do you expect. I don't want to be condescending or arrogant or insulting but it is a matter of skill as much as physics. Even if we assume for a moment ATS Has Absolutely Impeccable Perfect Physics, there are still going to be times when you're going to struggle pulling away loaded on an incline like this.

Ultimately, there are tons of variables here which affect how your clutch "feels"... engine torque/power, cargo weight, gradient, precise clutch slippage, the springs in your pedals, driver ability/skill, ingame pedal settings, differences between pedalsets (even within the same brand).... these are analogue devices which are being relayed through to digital, and you don't have any of the physical feedback to help you that you'd have if doing it for real.

I should say I've never driven a truck in real life, but in my specific setup virtual I do not generally struggle too much to hillstart, and I do not perceive any major problems with the game's physics in that regard. Sure, it's a challenge, off-ramps and SF are always going to be tricky, but be patient (I wasn't in this video which ruined it all...) , "feel" as best you can and remember it's not all about revs, you need to balance it with the bite point.

Describing purely in terms of revs is pointless because it needs to be balanced with the bite, but as a general pointer try how I get going in the video with LH (I'd normally go it in 1H):

- Find the bite, blip up to about 1250rpm, fall down quickly to 950rpm as you're bring the clutch to the bite point, and you should start creeping forward.

- Keep coming off the clutch but slower and let the revs fall to 800rpm (no lower).

- At this point you should still have the foot on the clutch but quite high up the pedal, you're giving it a ton of throttle and should be gaining momentum and revs.

- As revs pass through 950rpm again, you want to slowly come off the clutch entirely as you enter the torque band and it should just pull along now.

Of course though, these steps are a guide which work for me, with my specific setup, pedals, settings, driving style, truck... different engines/transmissions/hardware/driving styles will of course get different results. But this works reliably for me.

What went wrong with my first two attempts?

1. This was easy. I was driving tired and I'm never on top of my game then. Classic mistake, not enough revs. I didn't blip the throttle high enough (from video seems not at all... :?) and was lifting clutch at 800rpm. Not a chance.

2. Second attempt, it started off well and I was at 950rpm lifting the clutch, you can even tell from the video it was biting and pulling. But I lifted off the clutch far too quickly, in fact in the video you can see the revs plummet from 950rpm to 800rpm. If I'd done that smoother it should have been fine. In retrospect I could have recovered that, but it was starting to roll, I was tired and there was traffic behind me, so threw it into LH and got it perfect :D
Ilmiont on World of Trucks

EU: 2012 Volvo FH16
US: 2016 Kenworth W900 / 2015 Volvo VNL
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GT182
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Re: Starting on a hill

#64 Post by GT182 » 06 Oct 2018 18:56

The "hill" in the first post is not a "steep" hill. Far from it. B787, and others, this info below might not apply in ATS, as I don't have the setup you have for the shifter and steering controls. And ATS' "realism is not the same as in real life. And I did not read all replies before adding my 2 cents, so others may have given the same info as me. ;)

Do you have the trolley brake working in game? That's the handle on the right side of your steering column, or set up to a key on the keyboard. When you pull it down it sets the trailer brakes. That gives you full use of your feet for the accelerator and the clutch. Release the trolley brake gradually and press on the accelerator, then you'll be able to gradually move forward on the hill with no problems. You must use the lowest gear you have for a steep hill. If you have no trolley handle then set up a key on your keyboard. I've driven 7, 10, 13, 15, 18, and 20 speed truck transmissions in real life. I learnt the hard way with much practice but it works. ;)
Gary - CB code name: CW
Formerly from Northern NY on the Ontario/Quebec borders.
I've hauled ass down the road to deliver new cars and trucks, fuel, freight, and produce. Now I'm addicted to ATS doing the same thing in a simulation. :roll:
azabache
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Joined: 22 Aug 2021 10:11

Re: Starting on a hill

#65 Post by azabache » 22 Aug 2021 10:42

@ JeeF,

Hey man, how the heck did you that!!!
I made a mod (my first one) that changes "sway_bar_stiffness" to 0.3 in the physics file, but doesnt do anything. I'll appreciate your help
nater6540
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Re: Starting on a hill

#66 Post by nater6540 » 22 Oct 2021 16:00

Vinnie Terranova wrote: 19 Aug 2018 15:10 When I can't move my truck, I usually get a message like: "Try to use the retarder (V)" or something like that. After I press "V" I can move my truck. I don't know why, because I allways thought that the retarder has something to do with braking instead of accellerating, so that's the reason I asked you about the retarder.

<Edit>I was wrong of course. The message was something about "differential lock":
ats_20180819_173548_00.jpg
That’s probably the differential lock kicking in, which when locked up forces all the wheels on the drive axles to rotate at the same speed and distributes your horsepower and torque evenly between them, giving you some traction, which also helps if you’re stuck on flat ground as well.
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GT182
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Re: Starting on a hill

#67 Post by GT182 » 22 Oct 2021 17:39

IRL we used the trolley brake. That is brakes on for the trailer only and keeps you stationary on a hill. Keep your foot of the cab brake pedal, as that's for all brakes including the trailer. With only the trolley brake on you can use just the clutch and accelerator while releasing the trolley brake and start moving. It's far safer than trying to use all 3 pedals in the cab. Be aware tho that some newer trucks do not have a trolley brake at all. In that case..... good luck. :roll: LOL

If in doubt ask a real truckdriver, if you can find one that will help to explain and show you. Just let them know you aren't a real life truckdriver but you have ATS and/or ETS2 and want to know and learn. I could explain it until I'm blue in the face, but actually seeing it done is worth a thousand words. ;)
Gary - CB code name: CW
Formerly from Northern NY on the Ontario/Quebec borders.
I've hauled ass down the road to deliver new cars and trucks, fuel, freight, and produce. Now I'm addicted to ATS doing the same thing in a simulation. :roll:
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